3DS XL Self Install: Blue Light POP (soldering looks clean)

[Zak_Katchem]

I installed the self install Loopy 3DS kit.

At first the blue light would be consistent and the screens would not turn on, so I reseated the cables. This didn't fix the issue. So I then double checked my solder points. There were no points bridged.

Just to be safe, I removed the solder flex cables and flex cables that locked in through the clips and returned the 3ds to original hardware. The device powered on and both screens functioned as normal and games were playable.

Then I assumed my connections needed to be cleaned, cleaned the contacts, resoldered and seated all appropriate cables. This time instead of a continuous blue light, the blue light would resume would pop after 3-5 seconds. Reviewing the forums here usually due to missing solder points. I checked my solder points, nothing missing and no bridging.

Uncertain what to do at this juncture. There are two plastic lock clips missing that were held down with kapton on the original hardware (fell off upon first removal of the flex cables, but system worked fine as was with only original hardware.)

Looking for troubleshooting or at this point, could it be the cables? I was quick with all my soldering and desoldering to ensure I would not damage the cables, though i don't see any breaks in the cables, worried that could be the case.

[Zak_Katchem]

I installed the self install Loopy 3DS kit.

At first the blue light would be consistent and the screens would not turn on, so I reseated the cables. This didn't fix the issue. So I then double checked my solder points. There were no points bridged.

Just to be safe, I removed the solder flex cables and flex cables that locked in through the clips and returned the 3ds to original hardware. The device powered on and both screens functioned as normal and games were playable.

Then I assumed my connections needed to be cleaned, cleaned the contacts, resoldered and seated all appropriate cables. This time instead of a continuous blue light, the blue light would resume would pop after 3-5 seconds. Reviewing the forums here usually due to missing solder points. I checked my solder points, nothing missing and no bridging.

Uncertain what to do at this juncture. There are two plastic lock clips missing that were held down with kapton on the original hardware (fell off upon first removal of the flex cables, but system worked fine as was with only original hardware.)

Looking for troubleshooting or at this point, could it be the cables? I was quick with all my soldering and desoldering to ensure I would not damage the cables, though i don't see any breaks in the cables, worried that could be the case.

Any suggestions? Thoughts to this? I have been troubleshooting for a few hours, everything is snuggly seated in the flex cables but cannot get screens and continuous power.

[Zak_Katchem]

Image is distorted from resizing, the bottom connections I promise look much cleaner

solder 3ds.jpg (89.76 KiB) Viewed 47102 times

[Zak_Katchem]

flex 3ds solder.jpg (164.36 KiB) Viewed 47102 times

[Zak_Katchem]

LAST THING! I will plug it into my computer. My computer will recognize a device is connected. So I am wondering if the flex cable for the audio is the issue. Despite the contacts looking good.

[Zak_Katchem]

Never mind… not sure what component it is but I think something got cooked on the board. I took everything out. But not I have a dead 3ds xl effectively. Unfortunately.

[moopoin001]

Well, It's too late, but audio flex cable is not problem I think.
I didn't soldered any point of 3ds because I don't know how to soldering, but same thing happened.
In my case, it was screen connector issue.because I broke plastic lock chip on a cable.
Check the connector is clean, or plastic lock clip is not broken.

[angelosolitario]

Same thing was happening to me. Turns out when I was testing I put the battery in reverse and it fried the daughter board. Replacing the daughter board fixed the issue for me

[Gildas]

I've messed with those kits before, and they can be super finicky. The blinking blue light definitely points to a connection issue. Even though you checked for bridges, sometimes a tiny bit of solder can cause problems.

Since it worked fine after you removed everything, it's probably not the missing clips. I'd bet it's either a bad solder joint or a damaged flex cable. Flex cables are fragile, so even if you don't see a break, it could still be damaged internally. If you have a multimeter, you could try checking the continuity of the flex cables to see if they're conducting properly. Otherwise, you might have to bite the bullet and order a new set of cables.