Quick Question USB-C Charging
Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2025 6:50 am
Hello loopy or anyone! I have questions regarding charging through the USB-C, and forgive me if it was asked before, I did search the whole forum for anything related and didn't find what I've been wondering.
Basically, charging through the USB-C port of the capture board with the soldered 2 wires provided in the kit and according to the guide is slower than the OEM Nintendo adapter. Both methods should be 5V 1A (I measured output of 2 official chargers). And I mean, it's somewhat significantly slower, at least for me to notice. As soon as the red light (low battery) appears, I plug either cable to charge. With OEM charger, the light almost immediately goes back to blue. With my good USB-C cables (doesn't matter which cable I use) it stays red for about 10 seconds before going back to blue, and it also takes longer to fully recharge the battery.
My questions are these: First, is it normal? Does the board take that much power even when not in use? Can I, and is it safe to bypass and solder the 2 wires directly to the capture board's USB-C legs/pins/traces? Can I, and is it safe to use thicker AWG wires, like 22 or even 18 for less resistance?
Anything to improve this would be very much appreciated!
Basically, charging through the USB-C port of the capture board with the soldered 2 wires provided in the kit and according to the guide is slower than the OEM Nintendo adapter. Both methods should be 5V 1A (I measured output of 2 official chargers). And I mean, it's somewhat significantly slower, at least for me to notice. As soon as the red light (low battery) appears, I plug either cable to charge. With OEM charger, the light almost immediately goes back to blue. With my good USB-C cables (doesn't matter which cable I use) it stays red for about 10 seconds before going back to blue, and it also takes longer to fully recharge the battery.
My questions are these: First, is it normal? Does the board take that much power even when not in use? Can I, and is it safe to bypass and solder the 2 wires directly to the capture board's USB-C legs/pins/traces? Can I, and is it safe to use thicker AWG wires, like 22 or even 18 for less resistance?
Anything to improve this would be very much appreciated!

