[SELLING] New 3DS XL & New 2DS XL Controller Mod Installations (Z-buttons & c-stick)
Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2026 4:25 am
$125 per installation. Price malleable if getting multiple installations. Send me a message on here or on Discord: .vaike.
For DIY kits, see the bottom.
$10 per controller cable (+ shipping if ordering just cables):
Multihunting: the GameCube cable supports both WaveBird and WavePhoenix receivers.
C-stick calibration screen:
This mod is an upgraded version of Loopy's original 3DS controller mod, but is now able to manipulate the Z buttons and the c-stick. It can be installed with any capture card (Optimize/Katsukity or Loopy) as long as it doesn't take up the spot next to ZR. However, you need to get the capture card first because it will be harder the other way around. For N2DS XL, the port goes inside the flap.
The port is USB-C. Not an actual USB device. It will be a different color if I have them (usually red/light blue/white/green) so you don't mix them up.
All the same functions (calibration, set center, saving, mode changes) except Smash Stick and CPP modes were removed since the extra N3DS inputs already cover it.
Button combination functions:
L + R + X + Start = Set center for both sticks
L + R + A + Start (hold for >2s) = Save settings
L + R + B + Start = enter remap mode. Press Start (alone) to exit.
SNES & PS1 (no analog):
L + R + Start + Down = controller d-pad functions as 3DS d-pad
L + R + Start + Up = changes it back to 3DS circle pad
Right Stick Modes (only for controllers with a second analog stick):
L + R + Start + Left = C-stick
L + R + Start + Up = Shared (both sticks control main circle pad)
L + R + Start + Right = Mapped (each cardinal direction works as a digital button, default is ABXY)
Stick edge calibration:
For the circle pad, go to the 3DS circle pad calibration screen and do the calibration without a controller connected. Then connect the controller once you get to the arrow screen.
For the c-stick, load a game that has access to the c-stick calibration menu (retail: Majora's Mask, RE: Revelations. Homebrew: red-viper).
Enter L + R + Start + X to set the center for both sticks. Hold L + R + a cardinal direction on whichever analog stick you are adjusting. Adjust its position with the d-pad. If it's past the edge. For example, if the left input goes to far, hold L + R + Left on the stick, and then press/hold Right on the d-pad until it meets the edge on the calibration screen.
Button remapping:
Press and hold a 3DS button, and while holding it, press the controller button or buttons you want to map it to. E.g., if you want to map 3DS X to ZL, press and hold 3DS X, and then press controller ZL and then controller X as well, since if you press just controller ZL, controller X will be unmapped.
To map a controller button to 3DS ZL or ZR, you need to press 3DS L + Up (for ZL) or 3DS R + X (for ZR) while in remap mode. To be safe, you should also map those buttons again (R to R, X to X, etc.).
No touch screen support yet. If you use a PS4/5 controller with the Bluetooth cable, the touch pads do nothing. If you need touch screen input, use rehid. Even if touch screen support was added, rehid is most likely better anyway.
AI/data center demand is even affecting the cost and lead times of PCB manufacturing.
If you are concerned with aesthetics, wait for this one. It will cost more, though.
DIY Kits:
$45. Not a complete kit. What it is is two Loopy controller boards (different PCB colors) with the modified firmware, and a set of resistors required for the c-stick to work. This is not an easy installation even when the eventual combined PCB arrives. You are soldering nearly 30 individual wires, carving out a new port, and making your own controller cables.
N2DS XL - hard. Nearly every point requires soldering to extremely tiny pads usually in clusters of 4 where one of them is ground.
N3DS XL - less hard since the majority of pads are a reasonable size, but Home, ZL, and ZR are all tiny solder points. So are the d-pad points depending on where you tap into them.
For DIY kits, see the bottom.
$10 per controller cable (+ shipping if ordering just cables):
- Bluetooth controllers (BlueRetro Wii-Ext)
- Wii Classic controllers
- PlayStation 1/2 controllers
- GameCube controllers
- N64 controllers
- SNES controllers
- USB controllers (emulates a Wii Classic): only natively supports Dual Shock 4, DualSense, and Switch Pro controllers and controllers that mimic those listed ones (mainly aftermarket Switch controller). If you want to use a controller not listed, you need to find a USB adapter like the Magic-NS, which also supports Bluetooth controllers.
Multihunting: the GameCube cable supports both WaveBird and WavePhoenix receivers.
C-stick calibration screen:
This mod is an upgraded version of Loopy's original 3DS controller mod, but is now able to manipulate the Z buttons and the c-stick. It can be installed with any capture card (Optimize/Katsukity or Loopy) as long as it doesn't take up the spot next to ZR. However, you need to get the capture card first because it will be harder the other way around. For N2DS XL, the port goes inside the flap.
The port is USB-C. Not an actual USB device. It will be a different color if I have them (usually red/light blue/white/green) so you don't mix them up.
All the same functions (calibration, set center, saving, mode changes) except Smash Stick and CPP modes were removed since the extra N3DS inputs already cover it.
Button combination functions:
L + R + X + Start = Set center for both sticks
L + R + A + Start (hold for >2s) = Save settings
L + R + B + Start = enter remap mode. Press Start (alone) to exit.
SNES & PS1 (no analog):
L + R + Start + Down = controller d-pad functions as 3DS d-pad
L + R + Start + Up = changes it back to 3DS circle pad
Right Stick Modes (only for controllers with a second analog stick):
L + R + Start + Left = C-stick
L + R + Start + Up = Shared (both sticks control main circle pad)
L + R + Start + Right = Mapped (each cardinal direction works as a digital button, default is ABXY)
Stick edge calibration:
For the circle pad, go to the 3DS circle pad calibration screen and do the calibration without a controller connected. Then connect the controller once you get to the arrow screen.
For the c-stick, load a game that has access to the c-stick calibration menu (retail: Majora's Mask, RE: Revelations. Homebrew: red-viper).
Enter L + R + Start + X to set the center for both sticks. Hold L + R + a cardinal direction on whichever analog stick you are adjusting. Adjust its position with the d-pad. If it's past the edge. For example, if the left input goes to far, hold L + R + Left on the stick, and then press/hold Right on the d-pad until it meets the edge on the calibration screen.
Button remapping:
Press and hold a 3DS button, and while holding it, press the controller button or buttons you want to map it to. E.g., if you want to map 3DS X to ZL, press and hold 3DS X, and then press controller ZL and then controller X as well, since if you press just controller ZL, controller X will be unmapped.
To map a controller button to 3DS ZL or ZR, you need to press 3DS L + Up (for ZL) or 3DS R + X (for ZR) while in remap mode. To be safe, you should also map those buttons again (R to R, X to X, etc.).
No touch screen support yet. If you use a PS4/5 controller with the Bluetooth cable, the touch pads do nothing. If you need touch screen input, use rehid. Even if touch screen support was added, rehid is most likely better anyway.
AI/data center demand is even affecting the cost and lead times of PCB manufacturing.
If you are concerned with aesthetics, wait for this one. It will cost more, though.DIY Kits:
$45. Not a complete kit. What it is is two Loopy controller boards (different PCB colors) with the modified firmware, and a set of resistors required for the c-stick to work. This is not an easy installation even when the eventual combined PCB arrives. You are soldering nearly 30 individual wires, carving out a new port, and making your own controller cables.
N2DS XL - hard. Nearly every point requires soldering to extremely tiny pads usually in clusters of 4 where one of them is ground.
N3DS XL - less hard since the majority of pads are a reasonable size, but Home, ZL, and ZR are all tiny solder points. So are the d-pad points depending on where you tap into them.