Anything to watch out for if I am installing capture card and loopy's controller board?

[fvig2001]

Hi

So I plan to do both mods at the same time. Is there anything to watch out for as the controller board installation isn't that well documented outside solder points and how to setup the adapters. I am going to be installing them on a new 3ds XL.

Thanks

[Elysium]

Install the capture card first (at least the screen ribbon cables + cutting corner of NFC holder). Other than that, they don't really get in the way of each other. If you separate the board from the connector, the controller board can be placed either top left or bottom left of the micro SD card slot.

[fvig2001]

OK thanks. Still have to worry about the capture card. With regards to the capture card's shell modding, what is the purpose of it exactly? Is it just so it doesn't wiggle around or to let it fit since it's not clear on the instructions on how much you should remove.

[Elysium]

Mainly fitment. If you don't, you'll get a result like this where the N3DS XL doesn't close all the way and bulges in two directions:



Someone paid $650 + $5 shipping for this....

Modifying the shell perfectly is difficult. You'll likely not get it as clean as Loopy does. I've opted to remove the USB-C port and use a USB-C breakout board to put the board next to the ZR button because it's easier to cut (common spot for USB-C mods, handful of jigs made for it). It is limited to USB 2 speeds this way, but it's an option.

[fvig2001]

So assuming I remove the USB-C port and use a breakout board (probably with the CC resistors), I would not need to trim the bottom shell anymore and have no fitting issues?

edit:
Although looking at the board and the USB-C cable this site provided, the USB-C port has more than 4 solder points but the USB C cable is USB 2.0. It's a bit strange. I probably will just trim it badly with like swiss cheese holes.

[Elysium]

So assuming I remove the USB-C port and use a breakout board (probably with the CC resistors), I would not need to trim the bottom shell anymore and have no fitting issues?

Yes. You would still have to trim the board a bit but not enough that you cut any traces.

edit:
Although looking at the board and the USB-C cable this site provided, the USB-C port has more than 4 solder points but the USB C cable is USB 2.0. It's a bit strange. I probably will just trim it badly with like swiss cheese holes.

It supports USB 3, that's why there's more solder points.

[Lorenzooone]

FYI, if you're interested in 3D capture of your 3DS (as in capturing both the left eye and the right eye's top screen), it requires USB 3.
So be careful about not putting support for USB 3.
This is because USB 2 doesn't have the ability to transfer enough data for three screens (but works fine for two screens + the audio data).

[fvig2001]

Hi

I finished the Capture card part and the 3d on the 3ds_capture is still disabled and I'm using the same USB 3 cable I use for my Avermedia card (usb 3.0 only).

[Lorenzooone]

Hi

I finished the Capture card part and the 3d on the 3ds_capture is still disabled and I'm using the same USB 3 cable I use for my Avermedia card (usb 3.0 only).

You need to use a special build of the software. It's available here: https://3dscapture.com/tmp/3ds_capture_20240515.zip